Monday, May 20, 2013

Let’s get our stoke on the joke on, Torn Slatterns and Nugget Ranchers

In New Jersey, a man, 75, and a woman, 66, were busted for running a prostitution ring out of a retirement home; because who doesn’t want a hooker who smells like Ben Gay?

Because who doesn’t want a hooker who sends you a check for $4 on your birthday?

Taco Bell is testing out new breakfast tacos; this is perfect for people who can’t wait until the afternoon to have diarrhea.

At the Cannes film festival, thieves made off with a safe containing 1$ mil in jewels; in an equally classy crime, a Florida man was arrested for having a bag of cocaine up his butt and then denied it was his.

Since you asked:

Got out of the water at La Jolla Shores yesterday and I chatted up a fellow SUP surfer with;

“How did it go?”


That was it.

That is a fond memory from my early Santa Barbara days. A hard-core surfer in my fraternity would answer how his session went with that one word. Not, it was fun, or the surfing was really fun today. Just: Fun.

The great surfer, Keala Kennelly, she of “Blue Crush” fame once said;

“The best surfer is the one having the most fun.”

That is one of the greatest lines about sports I have ever heard. 

Then my La Jolla Shores SUP broheim said something that sounded funny:

“The waves had great energy.”

Now is that something a Californian would say, or what? But as funny and Jeff Spicoli –sounding as that is, it is also true.

One thing I have learned since surfing is that no three-foot wave is the same. Susan Casey’s “The Wave” taught me that waves are not moving water. They are what happens when energy floes through the water. Energy started by usually wind, but many other things including earthquakes.

When you see a wave rolling in and there is a piece of kelp floating in the water, the kelp stays where it is, the wave rolls past it. The water itself doesn’t move until the wave breaks.

So, as a result, no two three-foot waves are ever the same. Some can be weak, slow and sloppy, i.e., no energy. And some three foot waves can be fast, strong, clean and powerful. Great energy. 

Shaka geev um, brah.